Let’s talk about trends. Particularly how the fashion industry’s boom in microtrends is contributing to the environmental crisis we are currently facing. The rapid speed with which information spreads via social media means that people are bombarded with new must-need items or aesthetics almost on a weekly basis. Over just the last year, this has included the Office Siren, Mob Wife and my personal favourite, the Frazzled English Woman. It’s hard not to get caught up in this, and I often face the moral dilemma of wanting to stay current but also thinking about the possible impacts upon the environment.
Fast fashion has had a bad rep in regards to the environment for many years and contributes ‘8-10% of global emissions, according to the UN’. The premise of fast fashion is that it can quickly adapt to new trends, such as the coquette bows or cowboy boots that have been popularised in recent years. The issue with this is that it leads to overconsumption and exacerbates our consumer-focused society. It takes the time and thought process out of purchasing as we are hounded with hundreds of options in just one Google search.
Sustainability has however become more of a mainstream conversation in the fashion industry with a stronger focus placed on second-hand and ‘forever’ items. But this switch can bring up questions around privilege as charity and thrift shops are primarily to provide affordable clothing to those who can’t afford new items. This phenomenon has been coined ‘thrift store gentrification’ and can be harmful to marginalised and low-income communities. Is the switch to second-hand items just an excuse for people to continue to fill their wardrobes, without the need to feel guilty about it?
On the other hand, good quality, sustainable items often hold a heavy price tag which highlights how living sustainably is a privilege. Some ‘slow fashion’ brands include Nadinoo, Stalf, and Kate Sheridan which can cost upwards of £100 per item. Being wealthy not only can provide a wider variety of opportunities, but also a feeling of moral supremacy, leading those from lower socioeconomic communities to feel shame in the face of the environmental movement.
I often find myself questioning if any kind of consumption – including second-hand and long-lasting fashion items – is ethical. The rise of climate anxiety and the increasing awareness of social responsibility places more of an onus on the individual and their decisions. Whilst it is important to be aware of our own actions and their consequences, it should not be forgotten that large corporations are contributing the most to the environmental crisis by supporting overconsumption.
Fast fashion companies provide the products that litter our planet and the transport and shipping industry pollute our air. This is only part of the issue with large companies often exploiting cheap labour in the Global South, providing fossil fuel funding and using environmentally damaging materials. Shockingly, ‘85% of all textiles go to the dump each year (UNECE, 2018)’ with much of this being burnt and left in the countries they are produced in. There is an obvious disproportionate effect on the Global South that consumers in the Global North don’t witness which makes it easier to ignore the controversies within the fashion industry. They do say that ignorance is bliss.
Social media can contribute to the rapid spread and turnover in microtrends. TikTok is a main player in providing information on current trends to both the producer and consumer and TikTok shop allows trending products to be cheap and easily accessible. Fashion influencers advertise more and more products and outfit ideas, and the personal feel of their content makes them even more persuasive and successful. However, there has been a rise in content promoting outfit repeating and repurposing items for different uses as a resistance to consumerism.
So the next time you are tempted to revamp your aesthetic, see if you can raid your family’s wardrobe or repurpose your own.