As the leaves show signs of changing and students flock back to Oxford, wardrobe rotations are taking place and the woollens tucked away at the back of the wardrobe are dusted off. Perhaps you have even taken yourself to Westgate to peruse the new lines, racks of clothing standing to attention, alluringly encouraging you to indulge in something new. Yet, there is growing societal concern regarding the environmental ethics of the fashion industry. As public awareness about the impact of our way of life has increased, there has been a shift towards sustainable fashion and second-hand purchasing. Sustainability is no longer a discussion outside of the norm. The climate crisis has reached the forefront of our minds and has begun to govern our choices and the way in which we interact with the world. Therefore, it is only logical that we should start to reconsider the future of fashion.
High street fashion typically offers a quick sense of gratification for a low economic outlay. As such, the average shopper is more likely to gravitate towards cheap, fast fashion than a more sustainable option, which costs at least twice the price. In order to break this cycle of consumerism, a change is required. The price of sustainable options must drop drastically for there to be a chance of competition, yet this poses a challenge due to the high costs of manufacturing in a more ethical and environmentally friendly way. Moreover, following the pandemic, wool prices have decreased drastically. With wool clip prices at one of their lowest points in history and synthetics flooding the market, farmers have begun to debate the validity of the wool business and many are choosing instead to compost their fleeces or use them as bedding for their animals. This may seem incomprehensible given that consumers pay a premium for 100% wool products, while synthetics are less of an outlay. However, a large proportion of British wool is used for roof insulation or cruise ship carpets, while farmers struggle to cover their costs when it comes to selling wool into the clothing supply chain. These days, a Welsh farmer can be looking at 30p a fleece, which results in an instant loss due to the shearing fee and transportation costs. Therefore, British-made and natural fibres must be a priority when shopping, and you should never be too embarrassed to check the labels.
For those of you who are vegan or question the ethics of shearing, it must be noted that most breeds of sheep used to shed their wool naturally in the summer. This development means that it could be considered unethical to refuse to shear a sheep during the summer months, as unsheared sheep are not just at a higher risk of overheating (as we would be with all that wool!), but they are dirty and prone to maggot infestations.
By shifting public focus towards more ethical and sustainable brands, there has been a resurgence in cottage industries creating good quality products in small batches.However, these are often pricey. That is not to say that there are no other sustainable options, such as second hand clothing. The thrifting market is without a doubt on the rise, with sales predicted to gross more than fast fashion in coming years. Companies such as Vinted,ThredUp and eBay are thriving in this current climate and are the perfect places to find your favourite brands at a lower price without compromising on ethics or quality. Of course, it is important to acknowledge that, while many online companies are seeking to remedy the effects of packaging and transportation, this is not a form of shopping that is free from environmental impact. Nevertheless, it would be untrue to say that the fast fashion industry is not adapting to public demands, as many brands are facing new legislation from the European Union requiring clothing to be more durable and supplied with repair instructions. This encouragement of the ‘make do and mend’ culture should impose an understanding of the importance of taking care of clothing; the first step in the direction of a more sustainable future.
Ultimately, it is unlikely that fast fashion will completely die out, yet the reintroduction of the ‘forever wardrobe’ this season suggests a new age of fashion. Instead of repeatedly advertising the next style, many companies have been drawing attention to classic, staple pieces. The turn towards more sustainable materials has been coupled with the resurgence of capsule wardrobes to encourage the purchasing of a few quality items that ought to last a lifetime. This suggests that designers are becoming more environmentally conscious and realising the importance of reacting to societal trends in order to survive. A forever wardrobe should consist of classic pieces that never go out of style, still being fashionable even after countless decades, but some argue that they cannot afford such luxuries. Understandably, good quality clothes that last a lifetime will cost more than the average consumer is used to paying and this often leads to a reluctance to splash out. However, these items do not have to be new to still be good quality and, when put into perspective, these pieces should never need replacing. If they get tired there will be someone who can fix them – they are worth renewing rather than throwing away!
High street brands may still be at war over maintaining low prices with a high turnover, but as consumers the power is in our hands. Sustainable choices, whether through second-hand shopping or splashing out on high quality materials, will influence the industry and encourage fast fashion brands to reconsider their values. Although this is a gradual change, the shift from synthetic materials and environmentally demanding clothing is taking place and we can choose to support it. In a world where ‘sustainable’, ‘environment’ and ‘microplastics’ are words in daily use, surely it is time that we turn to age-old natural materials and new clothing practices?