Dishoom Permit Room: Review

On the 25th October 2024, Dishoom opened their Permit Room restaurant in Oxford. As someone who’s gone to Dishoom in Kensington so many times that I’ve ended up on their mailing list, I was thrilled to hear that my favourite Indian classics were coming to Oxford. Over the years, Dishoom have expanded from their original location in Covent Garden to all over London, eventually opening up their Permit Room branch in Cambridge, Brighton, and finally, Oxford. 

While I missed the opening night, I managed to get a spot with my friend on an early Sunday evening. Since Dishoom doesn’t allow reservations after a certain time, your best bet is to show up at an awkward time and hope for the best: which is exactly what we did. Unsurprisingly, the restaurant was already packed but we’d managed to get a seat. We sat ourselves down close to the bar, the fridge covered with polaroids of smiling customers and the minty walls adorned with flowery, extravagant paintings. The restaurant was unmistakably Dishoom-y, with a post-colonial art deco vibe and incredibly friendly servers buzzing around the space. 

Permit Room’s menu embodies a tapas-like approach to their food, prioritising more small, shareable plates compared to the larger-sized portions found in their London counterparts. Marketed as an “all-day bar-café”, Permit Room serves food from breakfast to dinner alongside a wide selection of unique cocktails. While for me the mango lassi or the masala chai is a usual go-to favourite, this time around I opted for a glass of their Chardonnay. 

In true Dishoom fashion, my friend and I ordered a selection of plates to share: lamb samosas and prawn recheado to start, along with their iconic chicken ruby curry and basmati rice. 

The lamb samosas were crunchy and crispy, stuffed with minced lamb, onions, and a variety of spices. The samosas were served with hari chutney, made from coriander leaves and spices, giving the pastry a certain kick. 

The prawns, on the other hand, were grilled and doused in chillies, giving it a slightly smoky and tangy texture. While the bowl looked deceptively small, they were filled to the top with prawns, which went well with rice or on their own. 

Then, came the star of the show: the chicken ruby. The dish contains tender chicken served in a makhani sauce (a rich and creamy North Indian gravy). While the curry is smooth and buttery, it certainly delivers on the spice. Next time, I’d definitely be curious to try the Permit Room Special, the chicken tandoori, which I imagine is equally delightful based on the tandoori-like flavours from the prawn recheado. 

I can envision this modified Dishoom menu working not just for sharing, but for individual plates. While the portions come in small plates, they are actually quite filling, so it’s perfect for whether you want to eat a bit of everything or steal a whole bowl for yourself! And considering its location in a student town, the smaller plates feel less intimidating or daunting than their London counterparts, meaning that students can enjoy great Indian food in a slightly more casual setting. The prices are reasonable, again scaling down from their London locations, but you certainly still feel like you get the glamour. 

For those who want to savour Indian food with great drinks and a lovely atmosphere, Permit Room in Oxford is the place to go. 

You can find them on New Inn Hall Street, OX1 2RP.