The fashion circus has begun as we enter the oncoming months of Europe’s fashion weeks; kicking it off with the more underrated and subtle Copenhagen, running from the 5th to 8th August this summer. When you think of fashion week, Paris, London and Milan are usually the cities that spring to mind (especially since the Danish city puts on its fashion week a month before them), but the recent media obsession with the “scandi girl” style and persona means Copenhagen fashion week is gaining more traction than ever before. Plus, Danish brands like Ganni have been on the tip of every fashion lover’s tongue this year, so I am excited to see what new brands the city has to offer us. Copenhagen differentiates its fashion from other cities in its focus on sustainability, effortlessness and streetwear and this year’s shows just further prove the city’s identity.
Known for pushing new and innovative designers, this years fashion week is fostering the up-and-coming London-based Icelandic designer Sól Hansdóttir, the knitwear brand Stem from designer Sarah Brunnhuber, Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen’s Bonnetje, plus many more. We also saw the return of designers such as the Knitwear brand A. Roege Hove with some beautiful technically-designed knit pieces paired with understated black heels and simple makeup; perfectly adhering to the simplistic values of the scandi style. However, the general muted colour theme of blacks, whites and greys was interrupted by a few bright green pieces and accents. The green button up with a turtle/asymmetrical neckline was a standout for me. It kept the collection feeling fresh but still sophisticated.
Deadwood was also a standout show for me, adopting an indie rock style accented by leather, layered styling and parachute trousers. One model even went as far as to walk down with a white guitar case. The brand was founded in 2012 by Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder, their aim being to rework waste material into fashion garments in a sustainable way. As a brand they have ‘Pioneer[ed] the use of upcycled leather and vegan cactus leather, continuously experimenting with new material compositions, and always encouraging carefully considered clothing – Deadwood is preparing for an unexpected tomorrow.’ 1 The show adhered to the city’s roots in streetwear but with a funky twist that drew the eye. With a neutral colour scheme of blacks, greys, and khaki greens, the grunge element of the collection shone throughout.
Even more interesting, perhaps, than the runway shows themselves, are the outfits worn by the celebrities, influencers, and fashion enthusiasts that have dominated the city’s streets in the lead up to this week. We’ve seen looks with bold blocks of colour interspersed with people donning all white or black ensembles. The “office siren” trend seems to be a popular look, with many attendees adopting this sleek, sultry business style. Oversized blazers with exaggerated shoulder pads seems to be a common theme.
The fashion week has also gained media traction for its employment of a blind model; the social media sensation Lucy Edwards. Lucy walked for Sinead O’Dwyer’s show which was originally meant to be taking place in London, but Sinead made the choice to switch to Denmark to showcase her new collection. Sinead worked with a foundation that supports the visually impaired on both her last collection and this one, this showcase also saw more diverse models, including London-based models Jade O’Belle and Skye Standley. But Lucy – in all her mini-skirted tailoring glory – alongside her guide dog, dominated the catwalk and caused a lot of talk in the industry as to why a blind person has never walked a show before. This certainly feels like a huge oversight on the industry’s part, especially in their demonstration of inclusion and diversity.
Copenhagen has certainly set the standard for the oncoming bigger cities’ fashion weeks this year. Their showcasing of such innovative and largely sustainable designers and brands is something other cities and fashion houses should look to and learn from. I’m excited to see what trends emerge in both high and mainstream fashion as a result of what we’ve seen on display this week.
You can see more of Copenhagen fashion week and its shows here: https://copenhagenfashionweek.com/
Copenhagen fashion week is running from the 5th to 8th August this summer.