The end of the final academic term of 2024 held much of what one might expect: wrapping up loose ends with tutors, bidding farewell to friends, and a frankly upsetting amount of packing. Free laundry and a well-stocked pantry were not the only things drawing me towards home however, as an exciting and somewhat daunting new experience awaited me upon my return to that large sprawling mass of grey known to most as “the Midlands”.
The previous summer I was fortunate enough to work in a role that rekindled my passion for wine. As wonderful and useful as this was, I arrived at the conclusion that my qualifications weren’t worth the paper they’re printed on without a good corpus of practical experience to show that I’m good for more than just taking exams. As such, I reached out to a few prestigious local restaurants, half expecting to be laughed out of town, and offered myself as a general dog’s body for the festive period. To my surprise, I received a very friendly response just a few days later, explaining that while the current wine director was due to leave just after Christmas, I would be more than welcome to learn whatever I could from him before then. Some more details were exchanged, a call was set up, and that was that—I had some work in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
The days and weeks thereafter I was excited, slightly terrified, and almost certainly completely insufferable. Truly, I can only apologise to those closest to me for not shutting up about my plans for December, even back when Halloween was a few weeks away. Despite having worked in hospitality for more than a few years, there remained a mystique about Michelin-starred restaurants, a certain ethereal quality that comes packaged with that smart red sign to put near the entrance. As my first day grew closer and closer, I found myself wondering how it would all work, how I would fit into a team capable of delivering a service worthy of such accolades. My musings aside, the days rolled on and soon enough it was the eve of my first shift.
I strolled into the restaurant, giving slightly awkward nods and introductions as I went, and soon found my place in helping the wine director ferry bottles to and from the cellar, chatting about life, service, and the day ahead. Soon enough it came time for the lunch brief, and my first service fulfilling a role in which I quite honestly felt a strange mix of pride and imposter syndrome. The first service was a breeze, and the evening service that followed was made all the easier by the fact that I was still very much learning the ropes and most of the technical tasks were left to others. Regardless, I left the first day feeling invigorated, wanting to dive as deep as I could into this new world at my feet.
The following weeks were full of exactly what I had been looking for: conversations with colleagues and patrons about the sort of topics that make even my mother recoil into middle-class anaphylaxis. “Lees-ageing”, “gritty tannins”, and “not quite as refined as the 2014 vintage” made regular appearances in my speech during that time and I’ll wholeheartedly admit that I loved every second of it. I quickly found myself learning more, gaining more of that practical experience that I so badly desired, and felt myself settling into the restaurant more and more. What had once been intimidating now simply left me impressed and appreciative; what once seemed out of reach was now in my grasp and rather comfortable there.
The company of those who shared a passion for wine was, of course, paired very well indeed with a good deal of high quality and thought-provoking wines that I was able to sample in order to assure the quality of the wine itself and my own ability to describe it to a guest. Among these, of course, were the usual famous names from Bordeaux and a wonderfully punchy Shiraz from the late 90s. Yet also sampled were some more accessible offerings that deliver intrigue and enjoyment without requiring second mortgages or payday loans, a couple of which I have found examples of below.
Rocca Murer Pinot Grigio Trentino – £8.50 from Sainsbury’s
Bringing a bottle of Pinot Grigio over to a table at a high-level restaurant is a sure fire way to raise some eyebrows and occasionally land yourself a look of surprise or disgust. Certainly in the UK Pinot Grigio has a reputation as an easy drinking, rather dull wine found on pub menus everywhere and often drank due to its inoffensive and bland character. However, I will defend this rather unfortunately perceived grape with my dying breath. If you venture just a little south of Austria and a little north of the £8 mark there are some truly wonderful wines to be found. Owing to the German influence in this part of Italy, the wines produced here often sport the tall bottle style that many would associate with Riesling or Gewürztraminer, yet are completely different in character to these two styles! The Pinot Grigio from this region cannot be said to have any of the reserved, rather dull characteristics of its pub-dwelling counterpart, with rich green apple, pear with herbaceous notes, and a bold finish full of citrus. A perfect pairing to fish, mussels, or fresh and crisp vegetarian dishes!
Stanton and Killeen Rutherglen Muscat – £17 from Oxford Wine Company
If you were to take a look into my heart, nestled among all the room allocated to my partner, West Bromwich Albion and the music of The Clash, you’d find a large space dedicated solely to sweet wines. Perfect not only for desserts, but as a digestif or as a pairing for blue cheese (another significant tennant of my heart), these wines are so often tragically overlooked and under-ordered. This style of Rutherglen Muscat is one of Australia’s signature winemaking styles and offers an experience more delicate than the typical dessert wine. The grapes are briefly pressed with the skin in this technique, giving the wine not only its signature darker colour but also a lovely palate of raisins and rose petals along with some warming oak spice to finish. This is one perfect for after-dinner, or indeed to pair with a variety of cheeses!
